I decided that I had been lazy enough through the two weeks and it was high time to get my ass of my cozy bed. So, on Sunday the 31st of May, I awoke grudgingly at 6.30 in the morning and rushed through my duties to reach the metro at Vallcarca (closest metro to my house) at 7.30. I figured out how to go to Espanya from where I was to catch the train to Montserrat. Even though the timetable said that the metro runs only from 900 am on sundays, there was a train as soon as I got down to the platform (thank god – the timetable gave me a bit of a scare, it would have ruined my schedule!). A 20 min ride to Espanya and a 22.50 euros bought me a return ticket to Montserrat. I left Espanya on the 8.36 train and an uneventful hour later, I reached Montserrat Aeri stop, from where I took the cable car up to Montserrat.
Montserrat means 'Serrated Mountain' and is located in the Northwest of Barcelona (Barcelona is at the eastern extreme of Spain). Montserrat is essential a bendictine monastery that is situated on the mountains. It houses a Basilica and some small chapels, and provides for a large number of hiking/rock climbing opportunities. I had Rick Steve's excellent guidebook guiding me through the trip so I never had any problems orienting myself or timing everything right. If you do plan to visit any place in Europe, get Rick Steve's guide – its pretty well written and quite comprehensive. Anyway, I knew that the major attraction – the Black Virgin (Mother Mary) would close at 10.30 and hence I rushed to the Basilica. I went around a pretty big church, which was standard as far as chirstian churches are concerned. Some of the art was nice, but it was not to the level of the ones in italy. In any case, the monastery at Montserrat has had a huge number of demolitions and re-builds. The monastery was originally founded in 1025, but was destroyed by napolean in the 1800's. Before Napolean though, the black virgin statue was discovered magically by shepherds and was brought to the basilica and installed there. The statue was hidden away during Napoelan's era. Around 1850 the monastery made a come-back, but was again forced into dissolution during Franco's reign. Apparently though, the monastery was a voice of dissent during Franco's rule printing anti-franco literature in the banned Catalan. The next resurgence was post-Franco. The black virgin survived it all.
After the Basilica, I took the side entrance and joined the long queue to see the virgin. The statue in itself is nothing out of the ordinary – except for its blackness (no, this is not to promote African American brotherhood, but is due to some sort of chemical reaction over time). Mother mary holds out an orb which one is supposed to touch as a symbolic gesture that one has accepted Jesus as their god and saviour. Yes, I did touch the orb, and no, I am still the faithless Hindu that I was! After the major attraction was out of the way I had a nice breakfast and then went on my way to Sant Joan. This is a small chapel furhter up the mountain. I took what's called the 'Funicular' train upto a certain point and then walked up from there. The chapel was closed (and seems to be always so), so I hiked up further, till the path became such that only hikers could walk through it. I got some nice pix though!
Then began the 50-min trek down (I could have taken the Funicular back, but this was much more fun). Essentially a nice walk through nature (even though I was sweating like a pig – as usual!). Again, some nice photo opportunities. I reached the main square of the monastery and after a couple of juices to get me hydrated began another trek – this time down toward Sant. Cova. This is another small chapel built in the 'caves' (Cova) where the black virgin was originally found. A replica exists there today. It was surprisingly pleasant walk, with the walkway littered with beautiful carvings from some known-some unknown artists. A short stop at the chapel later, I walked back up to the main square. It was 200 pm and I knew I had done a good job sticking with the schedule. A relaxed lunch with Gastpaxo (this is a kind of cold-soup, fast becoming my favourite – more about it later...) and coffee ( I have become European in this – no meal seems to be complete without the end espresso!) took the whole of the hour and at around 3.15 I found myself at the entrance to the Montserrat museum.
The museum essential houses paintings from some local painters and some masters (Picasso, Carvaggio, Renoir, Monet). The works by lesser known artists were pretty so-so (except for one by Battista – I need to see more of his works). I hadn't seen much of Picasso's works before, but if he paints just like the examples at the Montserrat museum then chances are that I will not like him. Most of his stuff at the musem was so bad that I could replicate them using my left hand. If anyone reading this is a art connisuer and wants to chastise me for not understanding art, then I have a nice argument. A painting should not be understood (thats why I hate modern art), but should be felt. The moment I see the painting I should feel a connection with it. As time passes by I should begin to appreciate it more and more. Childish scribbles on pieces of paper put me off, and there is no way I am going to see any more of that!Google 'starry night' and 'starry night over the rhone' to see the kind of paintings I like...
Anyway, after the paintings, there were some sculptures and some Egyptian stuff. The coolest thing there was a mummy! I have never seen a mummy in real life before and this was pretty interesting for me. The teeth of that mummy was so well preserved – it was a bit scary!
The museum done, I took the cable car back and caught the 5.28 train back to Espanya. Oh, I also saw an audio-visual presentation – it was pretty crappy, the audio was just choir singing and the presentation was photos – no documentary, no history no nothing! I reached home, after a tiring, but exciting day at around 7.15...
The first bit of tourism here in Barcelona – it was fun. I got to use my camera and was very happy...Here's to some more of these trips!
I will hopefully write some more about my house,work, stay here etc. as time permits...lets see!
Anush